Preparing to Hike Mt. Whitney

Written By Jessica Fagan

In 2024 I set out on the journey of a lifetime, eager to prove something to myself and maybe the world. I was going through a tough period mentally, and I needed a dream that I could latch all my hopes to. For a while I had been romancing the idea of hiking Mount Whitney, the tallest peak in the contiguous US. After sweet talking my friend into joining, my heart was set, and the whirlwind began. 

To muster up the motivation to keep going, I decided to share my dream with others. I started a Reels series on my @eatwelllivewild Instagram called “Preparing to Hike Mt. Whitney” to document the experience. I have compiled all of those videos here, with additional information. So if you’re curious about making the attempt, please keep reading!

First, I have to say that climbing this mountain is 80% skill and 20% luck. There are so many things outside of your control, like weather and altitude sickness. When I started this journey, I truly did not know what I was getting myself into. Everything in this article is a summary of countless hours of research, digging through trail guides, Facebook groups, Reddit threads, hiking forums, and conversations with others. The more I learned and prepared, the more ready I felt, but the more nervous I became that I wouldn’t finish the hike. I had to accept that possibility, and so do you. I’ve read many accounts of hikers much more skilled than myself being turned around for one reason or another. It made the magnitude of this challenge come into clear view. It’s mental and physical, but it’s more than that. Nature cannot be tamed. It’s that wildness that draws us, but you must approach with caution. Have fun, but be safe, be smart, and know your limits.

Part 1: Introduction

 

In March of 2024, I won the permit lottery for Mt. Whitney. I headed to my local trail with a spring in my step, and the idea for this series formed in my mind. Breathless and with a new sense of direction, I recorded this introduction.

In order to hike Mt. Whitney from May 1st to November 1st, you must carry a permit issued by the U.S. Department of Agriculture Forest Service. There are two types, Day Use and Overnight. The Day Use permit allows you 24 hours to complete the hike. The Overnight permit allows you to camp along the trail at designated sites. The permit application is open between February 1st and March 1st each year. When you apply, you enter a lottery system to win the date of your choosing. It costs $6 to enter, and you can select up to 10 dates. Lottery results are published March 15th. Awarded permits must be confirmed by April 21st, along with a $15 per person reservation fee. Any unclaimed permits are rereleased. You can obtain a permit through recreation.gov.

So, what date should you hike Mt. Whitney? That all depends. If you have a flexible schedule, shoot for weekdays for better odds. Dates closer to the shoulder season may also be easier to win, however, Mt. Whitney’s weather can be unpredictable. During those times, wind, snow and ice can be present. If you’re inexperienced with wintery conditions, your safest bet is to apply for dates between late June and early September.

Part 2: How to Train for the Trail

 

Mt. Whitney is no easy feat, and training is imperative. The main things to consider are distance, elevation gain, and total elevation. Mount Whitney Trail is 22 miles roundtrip, gains over 6,000ft, and tops out at 14,505ft. Even for seasoned hikers it's quite the challenge.

Your training might look different depending on what you have access to, your fitness level, and how much time you have to prepare. If you have plenty of hiking nearby, focus on hitting the trail as much as possible. If you don’t, urban walking and regular exercise is a good plan. In Oregon, there’s an abundance of trails to choose from, so I aimed to complete as many as possible. Having a permit date later in the season (September 15th) meant I could gradually increase the difficulty over the summer. Below is a rough outline of the training schedule I followed leading up to the big hike.

  • May: 1 hike per week, 2-5 miles each, weekly yoga

  • June: 2 hikes per week, 5-10 miles each, weekly yoga

  • July: 2 hikes per week, 10-12 miles each, 5k race

  • August: 2-3 hikes per week including 1 high elevation hike and 1 20-mile hike, weekly chill yoga

  • September: 1 acclimation hike to Lone Pine Lake upon arrival

Part 3: A Play-by-Play of the The Climb Itself

 

While there are several ways to summit Mt. Whitney, the majority of people will follow Mount Whitney Trail. Starting at the Whitney Portal, you’ll endure a rugged but well worn 11-mile ascent and subsequent descent. It can take 12-24 hours, depending on many factors. Most people start before 4am, but even earlier is better if weather allows. The following lay of the land will give you an edge in your preparations.

Miles 0-3: From the Whitney Portal, you’ll gradually climb 1,700ft toward Lone Pine Lake. You’ll cross a few streams along the way, wander within the tree line, and hit some warmup switchbacks, until you reach a shady grove. There, you can rest on a log, or detour to the lake, before you reach the Whitney Zone. Beyond the sign for the Whitney Zone is where your permit is required.

Miles 3-6: Within the Whitney Zone, you’ll make another 2,000ft ascent, passing through Outpost Camp to reach Trail Camp. Overnighters can set up at either campsite. Outpost is more protected from the elements, but Trail Camp is much further along. This section is made up of rough, rocky terrain and plenty of stone stairs. There are several spots to stop and refill your water, be sure to do that. If you’re hiking in the dark, follow the AllTrails route with your location turned on to help you stay on course. Some spots can be a bit confusing where people have trodded various paths.

Miles 6-8.5: The real challenge begins now as you make your way up the infamous 99 switchbacks. You’ll cover another 1,700ft of elevation gain by the time you reach the ridgeline. Make sure you have hiking poles for this part, take breaks, drink water, and keep your snacks handy. Once the sun rises and the heat swells, this section becomes a different beast. Unless you’re a speedy hiker or an overnighter, start as early as possible to take advantage of the morning calm.

Miles 8.5-11: This section is where many people get turned around. The ridgeline starts at about 13,500ft and altitude sickness can easily set in. If you’ve had it before, or you’re just extra cautious, do some research on the medication Diamox. Additionally, you’re exposed to the elements, and any windy or stormy weather can stop you in your tracks. Lastly, this section is the roughest and narrowest of all. You’ll pick your way through boulders and loose rocks with a sweeping and plummeting view of the valley below. Eventually, the stone shelter at the summit will appear like a mirage. You’ll summon your last bit of strength to meet the peak.

Miles 11-22: The descent, while downhill, is a brutally long walk back. Make sure you have enough food, water and comforts as needed. Fresh socks, band-aids to prevent blisters, clothing to cover up and protect from the sun, hiking poles to keep you steady, a wag bag for when you inevitably have to use the bathroom, and a positive attitude will go a long way.

Part 4: Nutrition While Training

 

Nourishing your body is an important piece of the training equation. Personally, I struggle with my appetite during and after hiking. I’ve learned this is actually fairly common. In my hunt for healthy and satisfying trail food, I found consistent comfort in my favorite vegan-friendly sandwiches by Higher Taste. Available in the grab-and-go section at my local Safeway, they became my go-to meal while hiking all over Oregon. They were generous enough to become a sponsor for this hike. For that support, and for their delicious sandwiches, I am eternally grateful!

Part 5: Footwear

 

Footwear is one of the most crucial pieces of outdoor gear you will ever buy. There are many styles to choose from, each uniquely designed to address different foot shapes, activity types and levels of support. What to wear is really user preference, and I recommend finding your perfect fit. Go to REI and have your feet measured, try on everything, and find what’s comfortable for you. Make sure you’ve hiked a good amount of miles in them before you bring them on your trip. Keep in mind, the terrain at Mt. Whitney is rough and rocky. While some people love trail runners, you might want to consider something more sturdy for this hike.

Part 6: 5 Training Hikes in Oregon

 

Gradually completing more difficult climbs is a winning strategy for developing your strength and endurance. To build your own plan, download AllTrails and start saving hikes in your area. You can arrange them in collections by difficulty or distance from you. Reference these collections to plan what hikes you’ll do and when. If you don’t have a hiking buddy, consider joining local meetups like Women Who Explore. Here are some of my favorite training hikes in Oregon.

  1. Mary’s Peak East Ridge Trail: 6.1 miles, 1,564ft elevation gain, 4,100ft total elevation, 3.5 hours, located near Corvallis, OR. No permits required.

  2. Maxwell Butte: 9.8 miles, 2,500ft elevation gain, 6,213ft total elevation, 5.5 hours, located near Sisters, OR. No permits required.

  3. Bend Glacier and No Name Lake: 13.3 miles, 2,657ft elevation gain, 8,220ft total elevation, 6.5 hours, located near Bend, OR. Permits are required during high season.

  4. South Sister: 12.2 miles, 5,039ft elevation gain, 10,349ft total elevation, 12 hours, located near Bend, OR. Permits are required during high season.

  5. Pamelia Lake to Scout Lake: 18.2 miles, 3,366ft elevation gain, 5,889ft total elevation, 10.5 hours, located near Detroit, OR. Permits are required during high season.

Part 7: Hydration

 

Hydration is an often overlooked element of hiking. People carry too little water, and no hydration enhancers, then wind up fatigued and burnt out. I ran out of water once on a difficult training hike, and I never let that happen again. Rotating in electrolytes like Plink! is a great way to stay ahead of the pack. It’s a trick that athletes have known for ages, and hiking is definitely a sport. As someone who struggles with appetite while exercising, I’ve found that Plink!’s tablets are super refreshing and craveable, unlike many others I have tried.

Having a hydration plan can help you mitigate any issues that could arise. For myself, I carried: 

  • 1L water bottle for filtered water

  • 1L water bottle for unfiltered water

  • 24oz water bottle for my Plink!

  • 8 Plink! electrolyte drink tablets

  • 1 water filter

  • 1 water pouch as a backup

A humongous thank you to Plink! for sponsoring this hike. I truly wouldn’t have wanted any other electrolytes with me.

Part 8: Getting There

 

Mt. Whitney is situated near Lone Pine, California in the Sierra Nevada Mountain Range. Lone Pine will be your entry point for the trip, but it’s highly recommended to acclimate in the mountains to reduce your risk of altitude sickness. Horseshoe Meadow hosts a large walk-in camping area that’s perfect for the occasion. Head up there a couple of days before your hike. You can hike around there to help acclimate. Or, jet over to the Whitney Portal and get acquainted with the first few miles of the Mount Whitney Trail. Hiking to Lone Pine Lake is open to the public without a permit. Then, the night before your hike, you can move up to the Whitney Portal. They have a small number of single night campsites.

For a ridiculously easy camping experience, bring just-add-water camping meals like chef-crafted Poe & Co. Folk Foods. There’s so many reasons why this will make your trip a breeze: no cooler, no mess, no critters after excess food scraps. But most of all, they’re real superfood meals that will prepare you for the journey ahead. Poe & Co. Folk Foods graciously sponsored my hike, fulfilling my dream of teaming up with an outdoor brand. I am so appreciative to have had them cheering me on!

Part 9: What to Pack

 

A lot of research can go into what to pack. Everyone has their own gear recommendations, favorite snacks, and must-haves. Make sure you figure out what’s right for you. Pay attention to the weather forecast, what you learn during your training, and take safety precautions. Test every item before hitting the trail, and get comfortable carrying your pack at full weight. Here’s everything I brought.

Part 10: The Actual Climb

 

When I finally hit the trail, most of my worries had melted away. The rush and excitement was at an all time high. Everything I had prepared for had led me to this place, with the trail beneath my feet, the mild night air, and the starry sky above. My journey is just one example of how to complete this climb. Yours may be different. That’s perfectly ok.

  • 10:30pm - Unable to sleep, my friend and I hit the trail early.

  • 12:30am - We reached the Whitney Zone, just in time for our permits to kick in.

  • 4:00am - Our ascent of the infamous 99 switchbacks began.

  • 5:30am - The most magical moment of the trip, sunrise.

  • 6:30am - We made it to Trail Crest and started along the ridgeline.

  • 9:00am - The stone shelter came into view and we summited Mt. Whitney.

  • 5:30pm - Our feet touched the Whitney Portal. In total, it took 19 hours.

On September 15th, 2024, we completed the Mount Whitney Trail. It was challenging, exhausting, thrilling and rewarding. Our luck kicked in giving us wonderful weather, but we had to overcome a bout of altitude sickness. This mountain is not to be taken lightly. I hope I have provided you with enough inspiration and information to get you started. If you’re interested in reading a more detailed account of my climb, please read my blog The Highs and Lows of Hiking Mt. Whitney next!

As a content creator and storyteller, my work is possible in two ways. Either by supporting myself through my freelance marketing business, or by partnering with brands that align with my content. I am so grateful to the sponsors that partnered with me on this trip. Please support them!

Plink!’s electrolyte tablets are fruity, fizzy and delightful. I loved having them on the trail with me. Staying hydrated is so important!

Higher Taste makes the best grab-and-go vegan sandwiches and burritos. They truly were my go-to trail meal while training all summer.

Poe & Co. Folk Foods’ yummy chef-made vegan camping and backpacking meals were a hit. It was so easy to prepare these while camping on our trip! They fueled us for the big hike.

If you’re interested in discussing my freelance work or a partnership, please reach out through my contact page, email me at jess@eatwelllivewild.com or DM me at instagram.com/eatwelllivewild.

Jessica Fagan
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